In this article you’ll learn:
- Why SPF ratings can be misleading.
- What to look for in a great sunscreen.
- The health implications of common sunscreen agents.
- Which sunscreens are recommended.
Get Real About SPF Ratings
SPF ratings can be misleading. Simply put, a high SPF probably isn’t giving you the added protection you think it is. The difference between SPF30 and SPF100 is hardly anything →
What’s more, SPF only accounts for safeguards against UVB rays. And your skin needs protection from UVB and UVA radiation. So please, pleeeease stop buying sunscreens based solely on their high SPF rating. Even the FDA stated in 2007 that any SPF greater than 50 is “inherently misleading.”
Protecting skin from UVA radiation is incredibly important. UVA radiation accelerates the aging process. Think of it this way:
- UVA: causes accelerated Aging.
- UVB: causes Burning (also thought to be the UV source of skin cancer).
The term “broad spectrum” refers to a sunscreen which protects against two types of UV light (UVA & UVB) that can harm skin. It’s important to use a sunscreen which qualifies as broad spectrum. Unfortunately, UVA protection isn’t rated in the United States* so it’s difficult to determine just how extensive that “broad spectrum” claim on a bottle of sunscreen really is.
So which sunscreen offers true, stable broad spectrum protection? Read on…
Which Sunscreen is the Best?
A good sunscreen has strong UVA and UVB protection, with minimal adverse health implications.
Zinc oxide is my preferred sunscreen agent because:
- It has stable UVA and UVB protection.
- It doesn’t absorb into my skin or disrupt hormones.
- It doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin.
Back in the day, zinc oxide sunscreens were universally thick and unflattering. But in the last 3 years, improved zinc oxide-based sunscreens have made their way onto shelves. Thankfully, it’s now possible to find clean zinc oxide sunscreens that are sheer and lightweight.
I’m a fan of the sunscreen selection over at Credo Beauty; they carry quality, safe zinc oxide-based formulations from Suntegrity, Juice Beauty, and California Naturel. And Credo Beauty also carries titanium dioxide-based options, if that’s your preference.
SHOP NATURAL SUNSCREENS AT CREDO
Common Sunscreen Agents
Not all sunscreens are created equal. Know which ones have limited broad-spectrum protection, disrupt hormones, sensitize skin, or are found in mother’s milk.
Below, you’ll find a breakdown of the 9 most popular sunscreen agents in the United States: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone, ecamsule/mexoryl sx, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, and oxybenzone.
What you discover might surprise you.
Titanium Dioxide (mineral type)
Strengths:
- Good UVB protection.
- Some UVA protection.
- Stable when exposed to sunlight.
- Does not penetrate skin.
- Does not disrupt hormones.
- Non-irritating.
Weaknesses:
- Does not protect against long-wave UVA.
- Unsafe if inhaled.
Other names:
- 1385RN 59
- 1700 White
- 234DA
- A 200 (Pigment) or A 330 (Pigment)
- Aerolyst 7710
Zinc Oxide (mineral type)
Strengths:
- Extensive UVA and UVB protection.
- Stable when exposed to sunlight.
- Nano and non-nano types don’t penetrate skin, according to the latest research.
- Does not disrupt hormones.
- Soothing and healing.
Weaknesses:
- Unsafe if inhaled.
- Some forms can be thick and leave a whitish hue on skin.
Other names:
- Flowers of zinc
- Philosopher’s Wool
- Zinc White
- CI 77947
Avobenzone (chemical type)
Strengths:
- Good at filtering most UVA rays.
- Limited skin penetration.
- Does not alter hormones.
Weaknesses:
- Unstable when exposed to sunlight. Requires photo stabilizers to prevent significant degradation in light.
- Relatively high rates of skin allergies.
- Limited UVB protection.
Other names:
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
- 1,3-Propanedione
- 4-Tert-Butyl-4-Methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Avo or Avobenzona
- BMDBM
- Parsol 1789
Ecamsule / Mexoryl SX (chemical type)
Strengths:
- UVA protection.
- Low skin penetration.
- Limited degradation when exposed to light.
Weaknesses:
- Exclusive to L’Oreal and its brands.
- Incomplete UVB protection.
Other names:
- Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or TDSA
Homosalate (chemical type)
Strengths:
- Strong UVB protection.
- Limited degradation when exposed to light.
Weaknesses:
- Minimal UVA protection.
- Some skin penetration.
- Found in mother’s milk.
- Hormonal disruption observed (androgen, estrogen and progesterone)
Other names:
- 3,3,5-Trimethyl-Salicylate Cyclohexanol
- Caswell No. 482B
- Coppertone
- Cyclohexanol
- Heliopan
Octinoxate (chemical type)
Strengths:
- UVB protection.
- Low potential to sensitize skin or act as a photoallergen.
Weaknesses:
- Some skin penetration.
- Found in mother’s milk.
- Hormonal disruption observed.
- May cause skin allergies.
Other names:
- Octyl Methoxycinnamate
- 2-Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
- Escalol
- Neo Heliopan
Octisalate (chemical type)
Strengths:
- Stabilizes avobenzone.
- Some (weak) UVB protection.
Weaknesses:
- Skin penetration.
Other names:
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate
- 2-Ethylhexyl Ester Benzoic Acid
- BRN 2730664
Octocrylene (chemical type)
Strengths:
- Strong UVB protection.
- Added to sunscreen formulations to stabilize avobenzone.
Weaknesses:
- Limited UVA protection.
- Skin penetration.
- Found in mother’s milk.
- Possible skin allergen.
Other names:
- 2-Cyano-3,3-Diphenyl Acrylic Acid
- OC
Oxybenzone (chemical type)
Strengths:
- Strong UVB protection.
- Considerable UVA protection.
Weaknesses:
- Skin penetration.
- Possible endocrine disruptor.
- Found in mother’s milk.
- Possible skin allergies.
- Associated with female endometriosis.
Other names:
- Benzophenone-3
- 2-Benzoyl-5-Methoxyphenol
- Anuvex
In Other Words…
Safe, effective sunscreens are out there! Don’t be afraid to read labels and find what works for you.
Further Reading for the Sunscreen-Obsessed
Natural Skincare: 99 Amazing Products to Transform Your Skin | A no-frills list of my favorite skincare products, including sunscreens.
EWG Guide to Sunscreen | This helpful resource from the Environmental Working Group contains useful information and buyers’ guides.
*Elsewhere, the Japanese-developed persistent pigment darkening method (PPD) is used to measure UVA protection.